Ελληνική Μικρά Ασία

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Μικρά Ασία: Αρχαίες πόλεις στην ανατολική πλευρά του Αιγαίου

Τον 7ο και τον 6ο π.Χ. αιώνα, την περίοδο του Β΄ Ελληνικού Αποικισμού, ίδρυσε πολυάριθμες αποικίες στη Μαύρη Θάλασσα και τον Ελλήσποντο – ήταν η μητρόπολη με τις περισσότερες αποικίες από κάθε άλλη ελληνική πόλη. Υπήρξε η γενέτειρα του Ιππόδαμου, του πρώτου πολεοδόμου της αρχαιότητας, όπως και της γνωστής Ασπασίας, της συντρόφου του επιφανούς Αθηναίου πολιτικού Περικλή. Αποτέλεσε μέλος της Αθηναϊκής Συμμαχίας και για αιώνες -χάρη στον μεγάλο και αξιόμαχο στόλο της- ήταν μια από τις ισχυρότερες πόλεις-κράτη της Ιωνίας. Η Μίλητος, μια από τις δώδεκα ιωνικές πόλεις της Μικράς Ασίας, δεν χρειάζεται ιδιαίτερες συστάσεις, αφού για σχεδόν δύο χιλιετίες πρωταγωνίστησε στην αντίπερα όχθη του Αιγαίου.

Τμήμα του συμπλέγματος των Λουτρών και του Γυμνασίου στις Σάρδεις
Τμήμα του συμπλέγματος των Λουτρών και του Γυμνασίου στις Σάρδεις

Αν και η περιοχή κατοικούνταν από την εποχή του Χαλκού, το «κουβάρι» της μικρασιατικής πόλης άρχισε να ξετυλίγεται περίπου το 1500 π.Χ., τότε που οι αρχαίοι μύθοι αναφέρουν την ίδρυσή της από Κρήτες αποίκους κοντά στις εκβολές του ποταμού Μαιάνδρου.
Κατά την ελληνιστική και ρωμαϊκή εποχή, η Μίλητος παρέμεινε ένα σημαντικό αστικό και εμπορικό κέντρο της Ιωνίας, διαθέτοντας τρία λιμάνια (Λιμάνι της Αθηνάς, Λιμάνι του Θεάτρου και Λιμάνι των Λεόντων). Ομως, οι συνεχείς προσχώσεις του Μαιάνδρου την απομάκρυναν σταδιακά από τη θάλασσα, με αποτέλεσμα, τα ερείπια της αρχαίας πόλης να βρίσκονται σήμερα σε απόσταση περίπου 10 χλμ. από την ακτογραμμή. Οι πιο καθοριστικές ημερομηνίες στην ιστορία της Μιλήτου είναι το 494 π.Χ., όταν η πόλη καταστράφηκε από τους Πέρσες για τη συμμετοχή της στην ιωνική επανάσταση, το 333 π.Χ., όταν τις πύλες της Μιλήτου πέρασε ο Μέγας Αλέξανδρος και το 57 μ.Χ., όταν την επισκέφθηκε ο Απόστολος Παύλος. Η άλωσή της από τους Σελτζούκους Τούρκους τον 14ο αιώνα ήταν ένας από τους παράγοντες που οδήγησαν στην παρακμή και στην οριστική εγκατάλειψη της πόλης.
Οι πρώτες ανασκαφές στον αρχαιολογικό χώρο της Μιλήτου διεξήχθησαν το 1869-1873 από τον Γάλλο αρχαιολόγο Olivier Rayet, για να ακολουθήσει ο Γερμανός αρχαιολόγος Theodor Wiegand το 1899. Παρά το εκτεταμένο μέγεθος της πόλης, λίγα μόλις μνημεία διασώζονται σήμερα σε καλή κατάσταση. Ξεχωρίζουν η Ιωνική Στοά (κτίστηκε στα μέσα του 1ου μ.Χ. αιώνα), η Δυτική Αγορά (2ου π.Χ. αιώνα), ο ναός του Σέραπη (3ου μ.Χ. αιώνα), οι Θέρμες της Φαυστίνας (2ου μ.Χ. αιώνα), η Βόρεια Αγορά (5ου π.Χ. αιώνα), το Νυμφαίο (2ου μ.Χ. αιώνα) και το Στάδιο (κτίστηκε στα μέσα του 2ου π.Χ. αιώνα). Παρεμπιπτόντως, η Πύλη της Αγοράς, που έφεραν στο φως Γερμανοί αρχαιολόγοι το 1903, μεταφέρθηκε ολόκληρη το 1908 στη Γερμανία και εκτίθεται στο Μουσείο της Περγάμου στο Βερολίνο.
Το εντυπωσιακότερο αρχιτεκτόνημα της Μιλήτου είναι αναμφισβήτητα το θέατρό της. Από τα πιο καλοδιατηρημένα της Μικράς Ασίας, ανοικοδομήθηκε τον 4ο π.Χ. αιώνα και είχε τη δυνατότητα να φιλοξενήσει περί τους 15.000 θεατές. Τέλος, μην παραλείψετε να επισκεφθείτε το παρακείμενο Μουσείο Μιλήτου, που στεγάζει ευρήματα από τις περιοχές της Μιλήτου και των Διδύμων, καθώς και από τις γειτονικές πόλεις της Πριήνης και της Μυούντας.

Τμήμα της Ιωνικής Στοάς στη Μίλητο.
Φωτογραφία: Κωνσταντίνος Μητσάκης

Πριήνη, πόλη κτισμένη σε επίπεδα

Από τις αρχαιότερες ιωνικές πόλεις στη μικρασιατική ακτή, η Πριήνη ιδρύθηκε από Ιωνες αποίκους με οικιστή τον Αίπυτο, γιο του Νηλέα και εγγονό του Αθηναίου βασιλιά Κόδρου. Εκτός από τον Αίπυτο, οι μύθοι αναφέρουν ως οικιστή και τον Θηβαίο Φιλώτα.
Κτισμένη στους πρόποδες της Μυκάλης, σε μικρή απόσταση από τον Λάτμιο κόλπο, ήταν μια από τις δώδεκα ιωνικές πόλεις-κράτη, η οποία συμμετείχε στο Πανιώνιο. Σ’ όλη τη διάρκεια της ιστορικής της διαδρομής, η Πριήνη ζούσε στη σκιά της Μιλήτου και της Εφέσου και μόνο τον 6ο π.Χ. αιώνα, όταν τις τύχες της μικρασιατικής πολιτείας ανέλαβε ο Βίας ο Πριηνεύς (ένας από τους επτά σοφούς της αρχαιότητας), η Πριήνη διακρίθηκε και άγγιξε τη μέγιστη ακμή της. Από τις πιο ένδοξες στιγμές της πόλης υπήρξε η απελευθέρωσή της από τον Μέγα Αλέξανδρο το 333 π.Χ. (ο ίδιος ανέλαβε και τα έξοδα αποπεράτωσης του ναού της Αθηνάς Πολιάδος). Η μικρή Πριήνη εγκαταλείφθηκε οριστικά από τους κατοίκους της τον 14ο αιώνα, όταν υποτάχθηκε στους Τούρκους.
Σε αντίθεση με την πλειονότητα των αρχαιολογικών χώρων της Μικρασίας, όπου τα κατάλοιπα είναι κυρίως ρωμαϊκά, η Πριήνη διασώζει σχεδόν ακέραιο το ελληνιστικό της πρόσωπο. Οι αρχαιολογικές μαρτυρίες, αλλά και τα αρχιτεκτονικά κατάλοιπα που υπάρχουν στον χώρο ανήκουν στην ύστερη κλασική και στην ελληνιστική περίοδο και αποτελούν, μάλιστα, ένα εξαιρετικό δείγμα της ελληνιστικής αρχιτεκτονικής της μικρασιατικής Ιωνίας.
Οι ανασκαφικές εργασίες στην Πριήνη, που ξεκίνησαν το 1895 από μια ομάδα Γερμανών αρχαιολόγων του Βασιλικού Μουσείου του Βερολίνου, έχουν φέρει στο φως μόλις το 1/3 της πόλης – πρόκειται για την εκτενέστερα ανασκαμμένη ελληνιστική πόλη της Μικράς Ασίας. Ο αρχαιολογικός χώρος εντοπίζεται στη νότια πλαγιά-άκρη ενός βραχώδους λόφου και απλώνεται πάνω σ’ ένα εκτεταμένο πλάτωμα, το οποίο δεσπόζει της εύφορης προσχωματικής πεδιάδας του ποταμού Μαιάνδρου. Στην κορυφή του βραχώδους λόφου, σε υψόμετρο 371 μ., ήταν η ακρόπολη της πόλης.

Το αρχαίο θέατρο της Πριήνης, στο τρίτο επίπεδο της πόλης.
Φωτογραφία: Κωνσταντίνος Μητσάκης

Κτισμένη κλιμακωτά, η Πριήνη είναι χωρισμένη σε τέσσερα επίπεδα (άνδηρα) και θεωρείται μια από τις πιο επικλινείς πόλεις της αρχαιότητας (αυτό το στοιχείο ίσως σας κουράσει στην περιήγηση του αρχαιολογικού χώρου). Η πόλη είναι ρυμοτομημένη σύμφωνα με το ιπποδάμειο πολεοδομικό σύστημα, χαρακτηρίζεται από αυστηρή γεωμετρική χάραξη και περιβάλλεται από καλοδιατηρημένα πέτρινα τείχη (μήκους 2.500 μ., μέσου πλάτους 2 μ. και ύψους 8 μ.), που διέθεταν τέσσερις πύλες.
Ανηφορίζοντας στο πρώτο επίπεδο του αρχαιολογικού χώρου, θα συναντήσετε το Στάδιο και το Γυμνάσιο. Λίγο ψηλότερα, στο δεύτερο επίπεδο, θα βρεθείτε στο μεγαλύτερο πλάτωμα της Πριήνης, όπου εκτείνεται η κύρια πόλη. Εδώ, εκτός από τις πάμπολλες ιδιωτικές κατοικίες, την προσοχή σας θα τραβήξει η Αγορά, το Εκκλησιαστήριο, το Βουλευτήριο, το Ασκληπιείο, η Ιερή Στοά και το Πρυτανείο.
Στο τρίτο επίπεδο, τις εντυπώσεις κλέβει ο περίφημος ναός της Αθηνάς Πολιάδος, προστάτιδας θεάς της πόλης. Εργο του αρχιτέκτονα Πυθέου, ήταν ένας από τους λαμπρότερους ναούς στην ιστορία της αρχαίας ελληνικής αρχιτεκτονικής – αναφέρεται ως ισάξιος του Παρθενώνα. Στο ίδιο επίπεδο υπάρχουν, επίσης, το Ανω Γυμνάσιο, το Θέατρο και το Ιερό των Αιγυπτίων, ενώ στο τέταρτο -και τελευταίο- επίπεδο ξεχωρίζουν ο ναός της Δήμητρας και ο ναός της Περσεφόνης.
Ασσος, εκεί που δίδαξε ο Αριστοτέλης
Η παρουσία του Σταγειρίτη φιλοσόφου Αριστοτέλη, ο οποίος έζησε και δίδαξε εδώ για τρία χρόνια (από το 348 π.Χ. έως το 345 π.Χ.), λογίζεται στις σημαντικότερες στιγμές της Ασσου, που κατοικήθηκε την περίοδο γύρω στο 700 π.Χ. από Αιολείς αποίκους από τη Μήθυμνα της Λέσβου.


Κιονόκρανο από τον ναό της Αρτέμιδος στις Σάρδεις.
Φωτογραφία: Κωνσταντίνος Μητσάκης


Κτισμένη πάνω σ’ έναν κωνικό λόφο και στους πρόποδές του, η Ασσος βρίσκεται στις βόρειες ακτές του κόλπου του Αδραμυττίου, σε απόσταση αναπνοής από το μικρό λιμάνι Μπεχράμ Καλέ των μικρασιατικών ακτών της Τρωάδας. Είναι πραγματικά μαγευτικό το θαλασσινό τοπίο που αποτυπώνουν εδώ τα μάτια του επισκέπτη. Καθισμένος στα πέτρινα σκαλοπάτια του αρχαίου θεάτρου, βιώνεις μια ανεπανάληπτη, πραγματικά, ενατένιση του γαλάζιου Αιγαίου, όπως και των απέναντι κοντινών ακτών της Λέσβου.
Ο τύραννος Ερμείας ήταν ο άνθρωπος που συνέδεσε το όνομά του με την ακμή της Ασσου. Κατέλαβε την εξουσία το 348 π.Χ. δολοφονώντας τον Εύβουλο, ο οποίος είχε αυτοανακηρυχθεί βασιλιάς της πόλης το 360 π.Χ. Μαθητής του Πλάτωνα και φίλος του Αριστοτέλη, ο Ερμείας ανέδειξε την Ασσο σε πνευματικό και πολιτικό κέντρο της Μικράς Ασίας. Υπήρξε μια από τις σπουδαιότερες προσωπικότητες της εποχής του και η αυλή του αποτέλεσε κέντρο φιλοσοφικών συζητήσεων και αναζητήσεων. Ο Ερμείας αιχμαλωτίστηκε το 345 π.Χ. από τον στρατηγό των Περσών, Μέμνονα τον Ρόδιο, οδηγήθηκε στα Σούσα όπου και θανατώθηκε. Οι αρχαιολογικές μαρτυρίες της Ασσου απλώνονται σε μεγάλη έκταση και περικλείονται από ένα στιβαρό τείχος μήκους 3.200 μ. Η πόλη διέθετε δύο κύριες πύλες (μία στα ανατολικά και μία στα δυτικά), που ήταν ενισχυμένες με γεροδεμένους πύργους. Πολλοί από τους πύργους του τείχους σώζονται σε καλή κατάσταση, προσφέροντας μια εικόνα για την ισχυρά οχυρωμένη Ασσο της ελληνιστικής περιόδου.
Ο κατάλογος των μνημείων του αρχαιολογικού χώρου της Ασσου είναι μεγάλος, ενώ η καταγραφή τους αποτελεί μια αρκετά ενδιαφέρουσα εμπειρία. Το ορθογώνιο συγκρότημα του Γυμνασίου, που έχει διαστάσεις 40 x 31,25 μ., οικοδομήθηκε τον 2ο π.Χ. αιώνα και περιλάμβανε την Παλαίστρα και το Εφηβείο (αποδυτήρια των αθλητών). Το Θέατρο της Ασσου χρονολογείται από τον 2ο π.Χ. αιώνα, υπολογίζεται ότι έχει χωρητικότητα 5.000 θεατών και προσφέρει μία πολύ εντυπωσιακή θέα προς τη θάλασσα.
Ο χώρος της Αγοράς βρίσκεται στις υπώρειες της Ακρόπολης και τα μνημεία που διασώζονται εδώ ανήκουν κυρίως στην ελληνιστική εποχή. Στο Βουλευτήριο (ένα τετράγωνο μονώροφο κτίσμα με διαστάσεις 20,62 x 21 μ., στο βορειοανατολικό σημείο της Αγοράς) συνεδρίαζαν οι βουλευτές της πόλης. Η Βόρεια Στοά έχει μείνει στην ιστορία για τις μνημειακές διαστάσεις της, ενώ η μικρότερη σε διαστάσεις Νότια Στοά με τους τρεις ορόφους χρησίμευε, εκτός των άλλων, και ως λουτρό.

 

Διακρίνεται η Μίλητος απέναντι από την Κω και βορειότερα η Πριήνη, οι Σάρδεις και η Ασσος.
Ο ναός της Αθηνάς, ο μοναδικός δωρικός ναός της Μικράς Ασίας, είναι το επιβλητικότερο και πιο αναγνωρίσιμο μνημείο της πόλης. Κτισμένος στην κορυφή της ακρόπολης κατά την αρχαϊκή εποχή, καλωσόριζε από μακριά τους επισκέπτες που έφταναν στην Ασσο, είτε οδικώς, είτε ατμοπλοϊκώς. Σημαντικά γλυπτά της ζωφόρου του ναού δυστυχώς φυγαδεύτηκαν από τον αρχαιολογικό χώρο και κατέληξαν, όπως συνέβη και σε άλλες περιπτώσεις, στο Μουσείου του Λούβρου (1838) και στο Μουσείο Καλών Τεχνών της Βοστώνης (1881).

Σάρδεις, η δύναμη του χρυσού
Οι «χρυσοφόρες» Σάρδεις, που σύμφωνα με τον Ηρόδοτο ιδρύθηκαν από τους γιους του Ηρακλή, αποτελούσαν μια μεγάλη δύναμη στην περιοχή της Λυδίας από τον 7ο π.Χ. αιώνα, χάρη στην ανακάλυψη και βέβαια την εκμετάλλευση των κοιτασμάτων χρυσού στον Πακτωλό ποταμό.
Στηριζόμενες στο πολύτιμο μέταλλο, οι Σάρδεις γρήγορα έγιναν πρωτεύουσα της Λυκίας και εξελίχθηκαν σ’ ένα σημαντικό οικονομικό, πνευματικό και εμπορικό κέντρο του τότε γνωστού κόσμου. Σύμφωνα με τις αναφορές ιστορικών της εποχής, οι Σάρδεις ζούσαν μέσα στη χλιδή και την πολυτέλεια, ήταν μια πόλη την οποία πολλοί θαύμαζαν, αλλά και φθονούσαν. Κτίστηκαν υπέρλαμπρα παλάτια και ναοί, οι τέχνες και τα γράμματα γνώρισαν μεγάλη άνθηση, ενισχύθηκε το εμπόριο, κόπηκαν τα πρώτα νομίσματα από ήλεκτρον (ένα φυσικό κράμα χρυσού και αργύρου) και περιμετρικά της πόλης υψώθηκαν προστατευτικά τείχη,
Ο περίφημος βασιλιάς Κροίσος κατάφερε να επεκτείνει το λυδικό βασίλειο από την Κεντρική Μικρά Ασία ως το Αιγαίο, αλλά το 547 π.Χ. ο Πέρσης βασιλιάς Κύρος κατέλαβε και λεηλάτησε τις Σάρδεις, τις οποίες και έκανε πρωτεύουσα της περσικής Σατραπείας της Μικράς Ασίας. Η πόλη παρέμεινε σε περσικά χέρια μέχρι το 334 π.Χ., όταν την κατέλαβε ο Μέγας Αλέξανδρος. Μετά τον θάνατο του Μακεδόνα στρατηλάτη, οι Σάρδεις αποτέλεσαν αντικείμενο σκληρής διεκδίκησης από τους Επιγόνους, ενώ από το 133 π.Χ., και μέχρι το τέλος του ρωμαϊκού κόσμου, ήταν η έδρα της ρωμαϊκής επαρχίας της Μικράς Ασίας.

Το Πρόπυλο του συμπλέγματος των Λουτρών και του Γυμνασίου στις Σάρδεις.
Φωτογραφία: Κωνσταντίνος Μητσάκης

Κατά τους βυζαντινούς χρόνους, οι Σάρδεις υπήρξαν επισκοπική έδρα, αλλά το 1402 οι ορδές του Μογγόλου αυτοκράτορα Ταμερλάνου κατέστρεψαν εκ θεμελίων την πόλη. Ο αρχαιολογικός χώρος των Σάρδεων βρίσκεται δίπλα στον αυτοκινητόδρομο Σμύρνης-Αγκυρας, μέσα στα όρια του οικισμού Sart και πλαισιώνεται από μια οικεία μεσογειακή χλωρίδα. Οι ανασκαφές στον αρχαιολογικό χώρο ξεκίνησαν το 1910, εντάθηκαν μετά το 1958 και έφεραν στην επιφάνεια εντυπωσιακά ευρήματα που ρίχνουν φως σε μια ιστορική περίοδο 2.400 ετών.
Το μνημειώδες σύμπλεγμα των Λουτρών και του Γυμνασίου, με τις θολωτές αίθουσες, το Πρόπυλο, τη μαρμάρινη αυλή και την παλαίστρα, σίγουρα θα σας καθηλώσει με την αρχιτεκτονική συμμετρία και την υποβλητικότητά του. Διαθέτοντας μερικά από τα πιο αντιπροσωπευτικά ιστορικά κτίσματα των Σάρδεων, το σύμπλεγμα των Λουτρών και του Γυμνασίου υπέστη αρκετές αλλαγές μέχρι την οριστική εγκατάλειψή του το 616 μ.Χ., ενώ αναστηλώθηκε παίρνοντας τη σημερινή του μορφή την περίοδο 1964-1973.
Στα νότια του συμπλέγματος των Λουτρών και του Γυμνασίου θα δείτε το κτίριο της Συναγωγής, που θεωρείται η μεγαλύτερη γνωστή συναγωγή της αρχαιότητας και υπήρξε το κέντρο της εβραϊκής παρουσίας στις Σάρδεις. Η Συναγωγή, χωρητικότητας περίπου 1.000 ατόμων, ανοικοδομήθηκε αρχικά τον 4ο π.Χ. αιώνα, δέχτηκε αρκετές προσθήκες μέσα στους επόμενους αιώνες, ενώ χρησίμευε για λειτουργικούς σκοπούς της τοπικής εβραϊκής κοινότητας.
Στις Σάρδεις μπορείτε να θαυμάσετε έναν από τους επτά μεγαλύτερους ναούς του αρχαίου ελληνικού κόσμου. Κτισμένος από τους Σελευκίδες -διαδόχους του Μεγάλου Αλεξάνδρου- ο ιωνικός ναός της Αρτέμιδος συναγωνιζόταν σε μεγαλοπρέπεια και μέγεθος (45,7 x 99,2 μ.) τους τρεις μεγάλους ιωνικούς ναούς των Διδύμων, της Εφέσου και της Σάμου. Στη νοτιοανατολική γωνιά του ναού αναζητήστε τα ερείπια μιας μικρής χριστιανικής εκκλησίας, η οποία κτίστηκε τον 4ο μ.Χ. αιώνα.

Η μικρή χριστιανική εκκλησία του 4ου μ.Χ. αιώνα, δίπλα στον ναό της Αρτέμιδος στις Σάρδεις.
Φωτογραφία: Κωνσταντίνος Μητσάκης

Απόσταση από το σήμερα
Ο αρχαιολογικός χώρος της Ασσου βρίσκεται περίπου 108 χλμ. βορειοδυτικά του Αϊβαλί, οι Σάρδεις περίπου 86 χλμ. ανατολικά της Σμύρνης, η Μίλητος μόλις 40 χλμ. ανατολικά του Κουσάντασι και η Πριήνη 38 χλμ. νοτιοανατολικά του Κουσάντασ

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